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1/8/2011 6:43:31 PM
 
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Section 20: Outdoor Photography Subject: Digital Cameras Msg# 762621
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the effect is as if the image was shot in the camera at that exposure..... so shooting 1/3 or even 2/3 stop increments in the camera doesn't gain you anything .... unless you are shooting JPG and not RAW. I didn't realize that... my brain still defaults to film technology and the example in that link would have been impossible with film. I could make corrections for film in the darkroom, but if an image was too far over or under exposed, the detail I needed just wasn't there so nothing could bring it out. Also, I guess I'm lazy... I set my cameras to record both a RAW file and the best JPG file they are capable of for each frame. 99 times out of 100 I send JPGs to my editors and one of the bracketed JPGs is usually perfect so, just as with film, I grab the one that works and throw away the rest with no more time or effort expended. Spending 15-30 minutes on each frame in Photoshop is just not my favorite thing to do... |
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For reference, the above message is a reply to a message where: If I am in doubt about my exposure I just bracket the the shot with frames taken one third and two thirds over and under what the camera recommends (one-third of an F stop is the finest adjustment increment available with my Nikons). I know you can set to auto bracket, but it still takes a tad of time to record the three images in RAW. Consider this - if you are shooting RAW and use a good RAW image editor like Lightroom, you can adjust the exposure of the RAW image and the result will be the same as if you had shot it in the camera at that particular exposure. RAW files can be edited to change exposure by 1 stop over or under and the effect is as if the image was shot in the camera at that exposure..... so shooting 1/3 or even 2/3 stop increments in the camera doesn't gain you anything .... unless you are shooting JPG and not RAW. Here's a link that does some additional explaining. Check out his sample. |
